Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Grey Gardens, San Francisco Edition: A Tour of The Bourn Mansion at 2550 Webster

When was the last time you were able to tour a crumbling Pacific Heights mansion ? For many Realtors, architecture enthusiasts, neighbors and looky-loos, Tuesday was the day. 2550 Webster Street at Broadway (aka The Bourn Mansion) was designed by renowned San Francisco architect Willis Polk in 1896 and is an unusual Jacobean/Georgian Revival style hybrid.

Now in foreclosure, the manse was built for the man that founded what would later become PG&E, but that's not what makes it so compelling. The current owner is the infamous Arden Van Upp. A Bay Area eccentric that purchased the house in the 1970's and subsequently became an erstwhile counter-culture doyenne. In the swinging 70's, Van Upp hosted huge, days long parties whose guests included rock stars, celebrities, hippies, society swells, druggies, politicians; you get the picture.

During the 1990s, there was a marked reversal of fortune and the parties stopped. The once "shabby but genteel" mansion started an inexorable slide into oblivion even though it is a registered San Francisco landmark. Given this back story, who could resist a peek inside ?

The mansion is foreboding and seems to swallow you up as you enter the large, dark central hall that rises four stories. The elaborate woodwork throughout is spectacular, the layout is original 1890's with nary an update in sight. Some rooms were chock full of furniture. clothes and personal effects, others vacant. As you entered the original kitchen the extent of neglect became obvious, The back of the house had literally fallen off and was exposed to the elements. This is not what you expect to see in Pacific Heights circa 2009.

The most amazing part of my tour ? A black clad Arden Van Upp herself sat in a broken chair parked next to a jumble of personal effects in her crumbling Drawing Room. The sense of despair was palpable as she watched the crowd mill through her home.

I wanted to say something to her, but couldn't bring myself to. My much bolder friend complemented her on her home and asked, "What are you going to do with everything in the house, sell it ?" referring to the detritus of 40 years stacked all around. Lightning suddenly flashed behind her previously forlorn eyes, "NOTHING is for sale here!" she exclaimed.

Every house has a story, some more compelling than others. I'm glad I had a chance to see the end of this epic chapter in 2550 Webster's history before a brave buyer begins the next. I hope it's a happy ending.